History
Linen, also known as flax, refers to both the fiber and the woven textile derived from the flax plant. As one of the oldest cultivated crops, flax has been processed into linen for an estimated 10,000 years. The earliest known linen artifacts date back to around 5,000 BC, with evidence of its use in ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, and Phoenicia. In those early civilizations, white linen symbolized purity—Egyptian priests wore linen garments, and mummies were carefully wrapped in linen cloth. From ancient Greece and Rome through medieval Europe, linen was a dominant textile material alongside wool. During the Middle Ages, its durable, dirt-resistant nature made it a popular choice for undergarments and even fabric armor.
Linen in Modern Times
Linen reached its peak in pre-industrial Europe, where it was one of the most widely produced textiles alongside wool. However, by the 19th century, the labor-intensive cultivation process led to its decline, as cheaper, machine-produced cotton fabrics became widely available. Ireland, the Netherlands, and regions of modern-day Germany, Poland, and the Czech Republic were major linen producers. In recent decades, linen has seen a resurgence as an eco-friendly, plant-based fiber. Sourced from the stems of the flax plant, linen is classified as a bast fiber, known for its strength, breathability, and sustainability.
The Fiber Structure
Unlike cotton, where fibers are individually short (about 1-2 inches), linen fibers form long bundles (20-35 inches) held together by a natural binding agent called pectin. Harvesting takes place in mid-to-late summer when flax plants reach 30-47 inches in height and bloom with delicate white or pale blue flowers. The plants are pulled from the soil using specialized equipment, and the seeds are removed—a process known as retting and rippling. The flax stalks are then dried, during which time the pectin naturally decomposes, allowing the fiber to be more easily separated from the woody stem. This can be done naturally in the field or through controlled water-based methods. The stems are then mechanically broken multiple times to extract the fibers. Finally, the remaining wooden bits are removed in a turbine process, leaving behind fine, soft flax fibers (about 1.5 inches long), which are spun into yarn at a short-staple spinning mill.
Properties
Linen naturally varies in color from white to cream to a grayish-brown, but it can be easily bleached white and dyed in a variety of colors. Because linen fibers can be finely spun, they are particularly valued for producing bed linens and clothing. Additionally, the fibers have a smooth texture, resulting in a tight weave that minimizes trapped air, making linen lint-free and resistant to dirt and bacteria. Linen is naturally antibacterial, dirt-resistant, breathable, and almost completely antistatic. Due to its moisture-wicking and antibacterial properties, linen maintains a low moisture content, inhibits bacterial growth, and helps absorb odors. These odor-neutralizing qualities make linen a preferred choice for insoles and shoe linings. As a moisture-regulating material, linen can absorb up to 35% of its weight in humidity while quickly releasing it into the surrounding air. This ensures optimal temperature regulation, keeping linen cool in warm weather and warm in cooler temperatures.
Versatile Appearance Depending on Treatment
Thanks to its excellent moisture absorption, linen is a highly comfortable fiber that efficiently absorbs sweat and feels soft against the skin. It is also exceptionally strong, durable, and long-lasting. However, linen’s inelastic nature makes it prone to wrinkling and abrasion. When ironed while damp, linen achieves a natural crispness and does not require starch due to its inherent sheen. Over time, linen softens and develops a more lustrous appearance with each wash, rather than deteriorating in quality. Well-worn linen can even achieve a silky texture. To distinguish between different linen qualities, the industry classifies pure linen and half-linen fabrics. Pure linen must contain 100% linen fibers, while half-linen fabrics must have at least 40% linen content, where the warp consists of pure cotton and the weft is pure linen.
Care Tips
Before Washing
When washing linen, it’s important to only fill the washing machine halfway and pre-soak the fabric for a short time. Use a detergent that does not contain optical brighteners—such as a neutral soap, mild detergent, or an all-in-one detergent for colored fabrics. Colored and unbleached linen should be turned inside out and washed on a gentle cycle at a maximum of 104°F (40°C). However, always check the care label for the recommended water temperature, as some linen fabrics can be washed at higher temperatures.
Whether washing by hand or in a machine, linen should always be rinsed thoroughly to prevent stains caused by oxidation of the cellulose. When spinning, use the lowest setting, and always iron linen while it's still damp. Dry heat can damage the fabric, so a steam iron is recommended.
After Washing
Ironing linen gives it a slight sheen. If you prefer a matte, natural look, turn the fabric inside out before ironing. Since linen is less elastic than other fibers, it tends to wrinkle easily. To minimize creasing, avoid washing linen items while they are folded, do not overfill the washing machine, and try to avoid using a tumble dryer whenever possible. When packing linen garments in a suitcase, wrap them in tissue paper to prevent deep creases.
Before drying, gently stretch the fabric and hang it to air-dry while still dripping wet—but avoid direct sunlight. If tumble drying is necessary, use a low heat setting and leave enough space in the drum for movement. For new linen items, we recommend washing them separately for the first wash. Very delicate linen pieces should be placed in a pillowcase before machine washing to provide extra protection.
Conclusion
More Pros Than Cons
Linen offers a wealth of benefits—it's a renewable natural fiber with versatile applications. Thanks to its breathable and hypoallergenic properties, linen is an excellent choice for people with allergies, those with sensitive skin, or anyone looking for comfort in hot weather. That’s why it’s widely used in clothing (especially summer wear like shirts, pants, jackets, blouses, and suits), as well as in home textiles such as bed sheets, table linens, decorative fabrics, curtains, and kitchen towels. Beyond fashion and home decor, linen is also used for bookbinding, screen coverings, tents, and backpacks.
Endless Possibilities
The versatility of linen doesn’t stop there. The plant’s stems can be processed into wallpaper, mailbags, and even molded fiber panels. Flax seeds are used to produce linseed oil and animal feed, while the short fibers—leftover from linen production—serve as insulation material. Since every part of the plant can be repurposed in some way, linen stands out as an eco-friendly and sustainable choice.
